The roller is a basic move that consists on a sharp curve on the lip of the wave.
To do that, you need first a lot of speed and then a good coordination with the breaking oh the wave : after your bottom turn, you have to go up to the top of the wave and you must touch the lip when it starts breaking. (pictures 1 and 2).
For a left side wave, when you touch the lip, you must change suddenly your direction by pulling the board to the beach with your left arm. Your body and your legs have to accentuate the projection of the lip by giving a big impulse to the top.
Once you have been projected to the front, you have to replace correctly the board between you and the water and to start a new take-off.
|